Being woken at 4.30am is rarely a plus. But heard from the Cinema Jenin guesthouse in the city centre, in a cool, clear dawn, the haunting musical waves of the azan, or call to prayer, roll along Jenin’s hills. It’s a moment of calm beauty in this bustling town, sadly better known for the Israeli army’s massive 2002 attack on the refugee camp. But in the ancient, dust-coloured Old City, staff at the Palestine Fair Trade Association’s Al-Dabbeh Street offices in a stone Ottoman home explain the difference their fair trade olive oil make to the lives of thousands of farmers. Or Umm Imad, whose journalist son was shot dead by an Israeli soldier in 2002, smiles as she shows off piles of meticulous embroidery for sale in the courtyard of the Women’s Cultural Society a few yards up the street. As well as making a living for local families, her society continues her son’s mission to keep Palestinian culture alive.